We’re a nation – a globe, in fact - obsessed with our hair. Analysts at Goldman Sachs estimate the global hair products industry to be worth $38bn (£22.6bn) – and growing at a rate of up to seven per cent a year.
我們生活在一個對頭發癡迷的時代。高盛集團的分析師估計全球的護發產品行業的總價值達380億美元(約226億英鎊),并以每年7%的速度不斷增長。
There seems to be no limit on what we’ll spend to avoid a bad hair day. But for devotees of an underground beauty movement, the secret lies in ditching the shampoo, in fact all the hair products, for good.
在這種情況下,我們想要擁有一頭飄逸的秀發簡直易如反掌。但是對地下愛美運動的支持者來說,護發的秘訣在于永遠放棄使用諸如洗發水之類的任何護發產品。
The ‘no-poo’ method, which involves using natural substitutes or just water in place of shampoo and conditioner, has credibility within several circles.
“no poo”方法,意為用天然替代品或清水洗發來代替洗發水和護發素。這個方法得到很多人的支持。
Beauty insiders, including writers for women’s magazines and professional hairdressers, rave about how hair becomes thicker, fuller and more lustrous.
使用這種方法后,頭發會變得更加厚實柔亮,包括女性雜志作家、專業美發師等在內的美容行家們對此都是贊不絕口。
And thrifty environmentalists rejoice at the lack of chemicals in and on their bodies - not to mention the impact on their budgets.
這種方法不僅能讓洗發者從內到外遠離化學物品,還省了不少錢。
Now one devotee is hoping to take it mainstream. Lucy Aitken Read, whose book Happy Hair: The definitive guide to giving up shampoo was released last week, hasn’t used shampoo in two years and her glowing auburn hair is visibly in perfect condition (see the photos if you don’t believe me).
這項運動的一位支持者露西·瑞德希望能將這個活動主流化。她寫了一本書名為《快樂頭發:放棄使用洗發水的權威指南》,上周出版。露西已經有兩年不使用洗發水了,但是她的一頭栗色頭發看起來狀態相當好)。
For her, the motivation came after reading a study that claimed women put 515 chemicals on their bodies daily. “I initially thought ‘Ha! They didn’t research me!’,” Aitken Read says. “Then I looked at the back of my shampoo bottle and realised there were loads of ingredients I didn’t recognise in the slightest.
露西開始有“不再使用洗發水”的想法是受到一篇研究的影響,這篇研究稱女性每天用在自己身上的化學物質有515種之多。“我當時就想‘我可不是這樣的’,露西說,‘然后我立刻查看我使用的洗發水瓶子上的成分說明,這才意識到原來里面包含了那么多我完全不懂的成分。’”
She does admit she was worried about the grease factor. “My hair used to get greasy the day after I washed it and I was addicted to dry shampoo. Hand on heart, I wasn’t sure how long I would last.”
露西承認剛開始的時候她很擔心油膩問題。“我洗完頭發第二天,頭發就會變油,所以過去我很喜歡用干性洗發水。說實話,我并不確定這種狀態會持續多久。”
Paradoxically it’s greasy hair that could benefit the most from giving up shampoo. The theory behind the ‘no-poo’ method is that shampoo strips the hair of its natural oils, which prompts the scalp to generate more oils to replace them. This results in oil overload – greasy hair – which we then attempt to ‘fix’ with more shampoo. It’s a vicious circle and quite a brilliant coup for the shampoo industry, because the more shampoo you use, the more you need to use and the more frequently you need to use it.
奇怪的是,放棄使用洗發水得到的最大的好處恰好就是一頭油油的頭發。“no poo”方法背后遵循的原理是,洗發水奪去了頭發上的天然油脂,而這又促使頭皮分泌更多新的天然油脂。結果就是頭皮出油過多、頭發變油膩,然后我們會用更多的洗發水來“修復”。這就像一個惡性循環,但這卻造福了洗發水行業—你使用的洗發水越多,你買的量越大,買的次數越多。
Left to its own devices or washed with natural substitutes, the scalp eventually theoretically returns to its natural balance, producing enough oil to keep hair soft and smooth without the associated grease-slick. The oils produced by the scalp – notably sebum – keep the shaft of the hair clean, smooth and protected, performing the role of ‘shampoo and conditioner’ far more effectively than the manufactured alternatives. The upshot should be healthier hair that is stronger, thicker and fuller as it is less damaged than shampooed hair.
使用天然的洗發水替代品,然后把這些問題都留給頭發自己去調節,理論上來說頭皮最終將會達到一種平衡狀態,在這種狀態之下,頭皮將會產生適量的油脂來維持頭發軟滑。頭皮產生的油脂具有滋養發根,保護頭發的功能,這些油脂雖然充當了洗發水的角色,但對人類的損傷卻遠小于人造洗發水,其結果就是你的頭發將會變得更加健康強壯,充盈厚實。
Most ‘no-pooers’ use alternatives to shampoo and Aitken Read’s book contains 30 different shampoo, conditioner and styling alternatives. Put together, they read like a cake recipe – bicarbonate of soda, flour, egg, honey, lemon juice. But after a period of time most find just plain old water does the job fine. “I use water on my hair every three to four days, and every 10 to 14 days I might use an egg on it, or some bicarbonate of soda,” Aitken Read explains.
許多不用洗發水的人都會使用洗發水的替代品,所以露西的書中介紹了30種洗發水、護發素、造型用品等的替代品。這些替代品包括小蘇打、面粉、雞蛋、蜂蜜、檸檬汁等,看起來就像是一份蛋糕配方。但是一段時間以后發現只是普通的自來水就很有用。“我每三四天用清水洗一次頭發,每10到14天用一次雞蛋或一些小蘇打。”露西說。
“Last night somebody on Twitter saw a link to my book and tweeted saying four people in her office were doing it. It’s gone crazy.”
“昨天晚上還有人在推特上看到我新書的鏈接,然后發推特告訴我說她們辦公室里已經有4個人開始嘗試這種方法了,根本停不下來。”
Tempted to go ‘no-poo’? Here’s your essential checklist:
如果你也想嘗試“no poo”的方法,下面是幾條基本的建議。
1. Bicarbonate of soda. The traditional alternative to shampoo, cleans the scalp without stripping it of natural oils.
1.小蘇打。傳統的洗發水替代品,可以在不奪去天然油脂的同時清潔頭皮。
2. Apple cider vinegar. A popular alternative to conditioner, which works with the bicarbonate to restore the natural pH of the hair.
2.蘋果醋。非常受歡迎的護發素替代品,和小蘇打一起作用可以使頭發恢復到原本的PH值。
3. A bristle brush. Bristles stimulate the scalp and distribute sebum all the way down the hair shaft.
3.一根毛刷。可以刺激頭皮,而且還能頭皮上的皮脂順著頭發梳下來。
4. A hat or headscarf - for when it all gets too much.
4.帽子或頭巾。可以用在頭發太多的時候。
5. Willpower. Brace yourself for a few difficult weeks – Aitken Read has heard of it taking up to three months for particularly difficult hair types to adjust – and keep your eye on the prize of healthy, glossy, lustrous hair with zero effort.
5.毅力。做好要度過幾周難關的準備。露西曾聽說,發質不是特別好的人要花三個月來適應這個過程。只要有毅力,就一定能擁有健康、柔順、有光澤的頭發。
我們生活在一個對頭發癡迷的時代。高盛集團的分析師估計全球的護發產品行業的總價值達380億美元(約226億英鎊),并以每年7%的速度不斷增長。
There seems to be no limit on what we’ll spend to avoid a bad hair day. But for devotees of an underground beauty movement, the secret lies in ditching the shampoo, in fact all the hair products, for good.
在這種情況下,我們想要擁有一頭飄逸的秀發簡直易如反掌。但是對地下愛美運動的支持者來說,護發的秘訣在于永遠放棄使用諸如洗發水之類的任何護發產品。
The ‘no-poo’ method, which involves using natural substitutes or just water in place of shampoo and conditioner, has credibility within several circles.
“no poo”方法,意為用天然替代品或清水洗發來代替洗發水和護發素。這個方法得到很多人的支持。
Beauty insiders, including writers for women’s magazines and professional hairdressers, rave about how hair becomes thicker, fuller and more lustrous.
使用這種方法后,頭發會變得更加厚實柔亮,包括女性雜志作家、專業美發師等在內的美容行家們對此都是贊不絕口。
And thrifty environmentalists rejoice at the lack of chemicals in and on their bodies - not to mention the impact on their budgets.
這種方法不僅能讓洗發者從內到外遠離化學物品,還省了不少錢。
Now one devotee is hoping to take it mainstream. Lucy Aitken Read, whose book Happy Hair: The definitive guide to giving up shampoo was released last week, hasn’t used shampoo in two years and her glowing auburn hair is visibly in perfect condition (see the photos if you don’t believe me).
這項運動的一位支持者露西·瑞德希望能將這個活動主流化。她寫了一本書名為《快樂頭發:放棄使用洗發水的權威指南》,上周出版。露西已經有兩年不使用洗發水了,但是她的一頭栗色頭發看起來狀態相當好)。
For her, the motivation came after reading a study that claimed women put 515 chemicals on their bodies daily. “I initially thought ‘Ha! They didn’t research me!’,” Aitken Read says. “Then I looked at the back of my shampoo bottle and realised there were loads of ingredients I didn’t recognise in the slightest.
露西開始有“不再使用洗發水”的想法是受到一篇研究的影響,這篇研究稱女性每天用在自己身上的化學物質有515種之多。“我當時就想‘我可不是這樣的’,露西說,‘然后我立刻查看我使用的洗發水瓶子上的成分說明,這才意識到原來里面包含了那么多我完全不懂的成分。’”
She does admit she was worried about the grease factor. “My hair used to get greasy the day after I washed it and I was addicted to dry shampoo. Hand on heart, I wasn’t sure how long I would last.”
露西承認剛開始的時候她很擔心油膩問題。“我洗完頭發第二天,頭發就會變油,所以過去我很喜歡用干性洗發水。說實話,我并不確定這種狀態會持續多久。”
Paradoxically it’s greasy hair that could benefit the most from giving up shampoo. The theory behind the ‘no-poo’ method is that shampoo strips the hair of its natural oils, which prompts the scalp to generate more oils to replace them. This results in oil overload – greasy hair – which we then attempt to ‘fix’ with more shampoo. It’s a vicious circle and quite a brilliant coup for the shampoo industry, because the more shampoo you use, the more you need to use and the more frequently you need to use it.
奇怪的是,放棄使用洗發水得到的最大的好處恰好就是一頭油油的頭發。“no poo”方法背后遵循的原理是,洗發水奪去了頭發上的天然油脂,而這又促使頭皮分泌更多新的天然油脂。結果就是頭皮出油過多、頭發變油膩,然后我們會用更多的洗發水來“修復”。這就像一個惡性循環,但這卻造福了洗發水行業—你使用的洗發水越多,你買的量越大,買的次數越多。
Left to its own devices or washed with natural substitutes, the scalp eventually theoretically returns to its natural balance, producing enough oil to keep hair soft and smooth without the associated grease-slick. The oils produced by the scalp – notably sebum – keep the shaft of the hair clean, smooth and protected, performing the role of ‘shampoo and conditioner’ far more effectively than the manufactured alternatives. The upshot should be healthier hair that is stronger, thicker and fuller as it is less damaged than shampooed hair.
使用天然的洗發水替代品,然后把這些問題都留給頭發自己去調節,理論上來說頭皮最終將會達到一種平衡狀態,在這種狀態之下,頭皮將會產生適量的油脂來維持頭發軟滑。頭皮產生的油脂具有滋養發根,保護頭發的功能,這些油脂雖然充當了洗發水的角色,但對人類的損傷卻遠小于人造洗發水,其結果就是你的頭發將會變得更加健康強壯,充盈厚實。
Most ‘no-pooers’ use alternatives to shampoo and Aitken Read’s book contains 30 different shampoo, conditioner and styling alternatives. Put together, they read like a cake recipe – bicarbonate of soda, flour, egg, honey, lemon juice. But after a period of time most find just plain old water does the job fine. “I use water on my hair every three to four days, and every 10 to 14 days I might use an egg on it, or some bicarbonate of soda,” Aitken Read explains.
許多不用洗發水的人都會使用洗發水的替代品,所以露西的書中介紹了30種洗發水、護發素、造型用品等的替代品。這些替代品包括小蘇打、面粉、雞蛋、蜂蜜、檸檬汁等,看起來就像是一份蛋糕配方。但是一段時間以后發現只是普通的自來水就很有用。“我每三四天用清水洗一次頭發,每10到14天用一次雞蛋或一些小蘇打。”露西說。
“Last night somebody on Twitter saw a link to my book and tweeted saying four people in her office were doing it. It’s gone crazy.”
“昨天晚上還有人在推特上看到我新書的鏈接,然后發推特告訴我說她們辦公室里已經有4個人開始嘗試這種方法了,根本停不下來。”
Tempted to go ‘no-poo’? Here’s your essential checklist:
如果你也想嘗試“no poo”的方法,下面是幾條基本的建議。
1. Bicarbonate of soda. The traditional alternative to shampoo, cleans the scalp without stripping it of natural oils.
1.小蘇打。傳統的洗發水替代品,可以在不奪去天然油脂的同時清潔頭皮。
2. Apple cider vinegar. A popular alternative to conditioner, which works with the bicarbonate to restore the natural pH of the hair.
2.蘋果醋。非常受歡迎的護發素替代品,和小蘇打一起作用可以使頭發恢復到原本的PH值。
3. A bristle brush. Bristles stimulate the scalp and distribute sebum all the way down the hair shaft.
3.一根毛刷。可以刺激頭皮,而且還能頭皮上的皮脂順著頭發梳下來。
4. A hat or headscarf - for when it all gets too much.
4.帽子或頭巾。可以用在頭發太多的時候。
5. Willpower. Brace yourself for a few difficult weeks – Aitken Read has heard of it taking up to three months for particularly difficult hair types to adjust – and keep your eye on the prize of healthy, glossy, lustrous hair with zero effort.
5.毅力。做好要度過幾周難關的準備。露西曾聽說,發質不是特別好的人要花三個月來適應這個過程。只要有毅力,就一定能擁有健康、柔順、有光澤的頭發。